Coffee in Koukaki

Koukaki is one of the oldest Athenian districts around the Acropolis. Primarily a residential area, it hosts many hotels and hostels, given its two metro stations and its proximity to the city centre and the main archaeological sites. 

Koukaki from the Acropolis

Since it is a residential area and it's situated right next to Plaka, there are not many things to do, in terms of eating and drinking. However, choices may be few but of high quality and provide an excellent alternative to Plaka, particularly if you're staying in the nearby hotels. 

"Pagkaki" (meaning "the bench" in Greek) is run by a group of people who decided to open a traditional coffee shop very different than the others. 

Pagkaki, photo from Wikipedia

Why? Well, "Pagkaki" is run by a collective and it belongs to the people working there, who, among other things, are aiming to provide high quality of services, food and drinks at a low price - or, at the right price, because unfortunately, Athens has become ridiculously expensive over the last 10 years, for tourists and locals alike. 

So, a pint of beer, which usually in Athens will take you back € 4-6, there it costs € 2-3 and for a glass of red wine you will spend only € 1.50. The same goes with everything served there, from coffee and raki (a traditional vodka-like spirit) to food.

However, the most important thing about "Pagkaki" is that they promote the use of fair trade and local Greek bio produce for everything they serve there. Finger food is very good as well: I suggest you try "dakos", a salad with Cretan origins, which combines rusks, feta cheese, tomatoes, olive oil and oregano.

Pagkaki is located along a paved road full of tall lush trees which provide shade and a cool breeze against the summer heat. It is open from 11 in the morning till late at night but it's better to avoid it between 9p.m-midnight because it is usually packed. 

PS. Very much dog-friendly!

Pagkaki
G. Olympiou 17-19, Koukaki
website: http://pagkaki.org/ (in Greek and Spanish)

Getting there
metro/tram: Syggrou-Fix station
trolley: 1, 5, 15 (Koukaki station)

map

Coffee and Art in Plaka

Plaka is the old town of Athens and perhaps the most beautiful district of our little metropolis. Climbing up the Acropolis hill, its neighbourhoods, consisting of narrow cobbled, whitewashed streets and traditional Athenian houses, give the impression that you're rather in an island than in the heart of Athens. It is by far my favourite place in the city, despite the touristy spots in and around it -thankfully, they are not that many and not utterly disgusting. Another thing I love about Plaka is that it's very much alive, people have been living there since forever, so it has a distinct neighbourhood, village-like feeling.

Plaka, being the centuries-old centre of Athens, is also its tourist hub and as such, it has many cafés and restaurants, most of them clustered together in very busy and noisy bunches. However, if you're the serene type of visitor and you prefer battling the summer heat in the shade, without spending more than € 2.50 and the chance to enjoy a free art exhibition, you're in the right place. In Plaka there is the best secret garden of central Athens -in my humble opinion that is. It is the National School of Fine Arts Graduates Association's Café which, from the moment I was taken there maybe 10 years ago, has become a summer-in-the-city staple.

As you approach, don't let the outside wall and the eye-soring touristy aesthetic fool you.

Through the wooden door, you enter an entirely different world.

It is essentially a house yard, surrounded by two traditional Athenian buildings, which serve as exhibition rooms.

In the two-level garden many tall trees, like acacias and olive trees, provide thick shade no matter what time you get there. And since the Café belongs to the Art School, it is decorated accordingly. The bar is inside one of the houses and it's self service.

Last time I went there I stumbled upon the opening of an exhibition by young Spanish artists, organised by the National School of Fine Arts and the Spanish Embassy. It was more packed than your average evening there, but there was free Spanish wine tasting and the exhibition definitely worths a visit.

National School of Fine Arts Graduates Association's Café
Panos 19A & Tholou, Plaka
nearest metro station: Monastiraki (blue line), Acropolis (red line)
opening hours: afternoon to midnight
coffee/beer/raki: € 2.50

Young Spanish Artists in Athens 2011 Exhibition 
opening hours: 18.00 - 23.00
till June 26th

map

This is not a travel guide!

This is a blog about Athens through the eyes of a local. Me! I was born in Athens, where I spent the first 18 years of my life. After wandering around Greece and Europe, studying and working, I came back to my  hometown almost 4 years ago to work as a journalist.

Since I live it the heart of Athens, a 5-minute walk from its most cherished asset, the Acropolis, I have the chance to interact with visitors from all over the world and spy on their habits.Where do they eat? Where do they drink? Which places are they visiting? Is it easy to navigate the city? And why do I never meet them in the places we Athenians hang out? It's a shame, I mean, how can you experience the real life of a city if you don't mingle with the locals?
And Athens is so much more than its ancient legacy: fascinating, true, but still, just the background for one of the most vibrating cities in the world, a city in a constant process of transformation.

Big cities can be a real challenge to the foreigner. I remember how lost I felt the first time I had to brave the tube in London or how difficult it proved to have a decent meal in Barcelona. So, part of the inspiration for this blog came through my own experiences as a traveller. As a first-timer in a city, with no friends there, I used to rely a lot on travel guides, traditional or online. However, I have rarely found travel guides any helpful when it comes to everyday staff that make up much of one's holiday, besides sight-seeing. Most of the times I hate the restaurants they suggest and the bars always seem to be on the touristy side rather than the real thing. Time and time again, the best advice I was given during my travels came from the locals -be it food, hidden attractions, a cafe,  a secret beach, you name it. 

So basically, that is the purpose of this blog: passing on my local wisdom and hopefully, making your stay here a bit more worthwhile. Feedback will be strongly appreciated!